The charming Serifos: from summer to winter

In case you’re not sure what or where Serifos is, allow me to enlighten you. Serifos is an up-and-coming gem of the Cycladic Islands in Greece, located between Kythnos and Sifnos. I first visited it in September 2019 and it made a great first impression - it’s rare to discover such a unique hideaway so close to a country's capital. 

Up until then, I was used to vacationing at cosmopolitan Greek islands like Mykonos and Paros, partying until early in the morning, and hugely overpaying for an umbrella and lounge chairs on the beach. I had forgotten how an authentic cycladic experience felt like and visiting Serifos helped me remember.

Breathtaking view of Sifnos and the Aegean sea from Serifos Chora

My summers in Serifos

My first full summer experience in Serifos was back in 2020. I booked ferry tickets on Ferryhopper and took the morning ferry from the port of Piraeus in Athens. Αs we were approaching the island, the picturesque Chora, perched amphitheatrically on a rocky height overlooking the bay of Livadi, left me in awe. From the moment I stepped foot on Serifos land I thought to myself how untouched by time it was compared to other islands.

Serifos’ unspoilt magical beaches

The first thing that struck me was the fact that the main beach of Livadi, Avlomonas, was free from the din of loud music and only had a few lounge chairs and umbrellas. In fact, almost all of the island’s 72 beaches (!) have been unaffected by mass tourism. When you set foot on Serifos’ beaches what you see aren’t overbuilt hillsides with expanses of white concrete, but an unspoiled landscape with spectacular rock formations and a few typical examples of Cycladic architecture.

Here, the thing I enjoy the most is the breathtaking view from the house. A house on the water and jumping into the sea without the need to head to the beach. So, every afternoon when I finish work, I put on my swimsuit, go down the rocks, and dive deep into the refreshingly icy water. It’s all so rejuvenating and I’m embracing the solitude, enjoying the hypnotic crashing of waves on rocks while reading my book.

Beautiful scenery at the sandy beach of Agios Sostis

Where to eat and drink

While in Serifos, don’t expect to find any fine dining restaurants or fancy beach clubs, but traditional greek tavernas, as well as cozy cafés and bakeries. When we’re in search of a much-needed breakfast and coffee, we usually head to either the Yacht Club, right by the bay of Limanakia, or Stou Stratou (the meeting point for all the locals) in Chora. Last summer, I discovered another hidden breakfast spot as I was strolling through Livadi’s narrow streets. I bougatsa tou Mitsou (Mitsos’ cream pie) is known for what its name suggests, its cream pies. Make sure to come here in the morning to buy the warmest and tastiest pastries.

After a vigorous swim, the best part is heading to the nearby taverna and overdosing on traditional Greek salad, chickpeas, imam or fish. My faves are Stefanakos taverna at Psili Ammos beach and Nikoulias at Platis Gialos beach.

As for dinner, you will find most options at Livadi, the port. The must-tries are Porto Vecchio for its great pizzas and pasta, and Stamatis for unforgettable seafood. If you still have room and want to treat yourself with dessert, head to Μέδουσα (Medusa) for the perfect soft ice cream or to Gran’s for the best crêpes and waffles. When we’re in Chora for drinks, nothing beats the chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream of Stou Stratou. After you’re done with Stratos, head down to Gaidaros (‘donkey’ in Greek) or Batrachos (‘frog’ in Greek) for drinks and cocktails. If it's not too windy, the roof terraces of both bars are also very beautiful.

Stou Stratou, the iconic Greek island café in Chora

My winters in Serifos

I can’t hide the fact that I like Serifos in winter. The hardest part of the low season is autumn, when most visitors have left and most shops and restaurants have closed. But after a few days I acclimatize to the solitude and the silence.

Now, what I experience is not children playing on the beach and boats dropping their anchor, but the strong wind blowing through trees and the waves crashing against the shore. Yes, it is eerie, but it’s also beautiful and a great escape from the hustle and bustle of city life. I may not be swimming every afternoon after work, but I have more time to read my book, watch a movie and repurpose old furniture, a favorite hobby of mine. 😜

My favorite sculptural furniture creations, sitting in front of the Aegean sea

Serifos covered by snow

On the 16th of February 2021, I woke up and I saw Serifos covered in snow, a truly rare event. I remember locals saying that the last time this amount of snow fell on the Cycladic Islands was many decades ago. I took advantage of this opportunity, so I got dressed and grabbed my camera, ready to capture the fairytale scenes. We drove from Livadi to Chora and the breathtaking views left us in awe.

When we arrived, we parked the car close to the windmills. The plan was to reach Kastro (‘castle’ in Greek), at the top of Chora, but it was too windy, cold and slippery (I wasn’t wearing the right shoes for snow and my feet had already started to complain). We ended up strolling through Chora’s alleys and finally set foot on the Town Hall square. This is the busiest part of Chora in the summer, normally packed with bars and restaurants. But on this snowy day, it was empty. There was no one there, except for us and a few locals coming and going.

The deserted Chora in Serifos covered in snow

We then got back in the car and drove towards the helicopter landing pad, where we got hit by a snowstorm. It was so windy that I could barely stand up. Even in my wildest dreams, I would never have imagined being caught in a snowstorm on a Greek island. Well, I guess that’s another tick off my bucket list. 

By midday, the snow had started to melt and we drove back to Livadi, making a few stops along the way. We were hungry, so we headed to lunch at Marina taverna, our go-to place during winter, serving traditional Greek foods.

Tip: check out this blog article for more reasons to visit the Greek islands off-season!

Snow on Avlomonas beach in Livadi and ominous storm clouds lurking above

Hiking the mining trail in Serifos

One of my favorite activities in Serifos in the off-season is hiking, with the island's mining trails definitely being the highlight. In between Serifos’ southeast lush green villages of Megalo Livadi and Koutalas, a trail dotted with remnants from 1880 until 1962 will time travel you back to its past. Strolling amongst the old rail tracks and mining cars, as well as the mining infrastructure, makes this hike truly extraordinary. 

If the opportunity to go on this hike presents itself, start by taking the path up toward the abandoned iron loading bridge (also known as the “Bridge to Nowhere”). Since there are no actual marked paths, you can just wander around and peep into the dark caves. Don't go too far into the caves, however! All of them are dark and unmarked.

Tip: for more information about Serifos' mining past, visit the Old Mining Museum, which is conveniently located in Megalo Livadi.

The crowd-free Psili Ammos beach in the off-season

There are some parts of the Aegean Sea that no matter how many times you visit them, whether it’s summer or winter, you can never get enough of their charm. This is Serifos to me. I might not be there now, but the island’s scents, the fresh sea air and the purity of the sky are always with me.

Author Bio

Hey fellow human! I'm Sabine Camhi and I'm a Content Marketing Copywriter at Ferryhopper. With around 3.5 years of writing experience, I've worked for various Greek and foreign news sites and magazines. I've also spent a year working in marketing and social media, so I know my way around the digital world.

When I'm not busy writing, I'm usually planning my next seaside adventure. I absolutely love exploring new coastal regions and sharing my experiences with others. Whether it's a hidden gem in Greece or a far-off destination on my bucket list, I'm always on the lookout for new places to visit and write about. So, whether you’re a seasoned traveler or a first-time ferry-goer, I hope to provide you with the most up-to-date info and tips to help you make the most of your ferry experience ⛴️